After a long winter of snow-filled skies, I must admit I do look forward to a bit if sunshine, and Obinata-no-yu is my favorite place to catch up on my vitamin D. It's closed in the middle of winter but re-opens just as the days start to get a little longer and the clouds give way to more bluebird skies. When there is snow on the ground the taps and showers are also covered up so you have to wash the old fashioned way by sitting next to the hotspring and splashing yourself by dunking a bucket into bath. Don't forget to get wet, lather up with soap, and rinse yourself clean before lowering your (now goose-pimply) body into these alkaline-rich mineral waters.

Open: 10:00 - 17:00
Closed: November - February
Price: ¥500

We have passed Kajika Onsen Ryokan a number of times on our way to Takasekan Onsen in Oomachi. Even tried to go there once but because the onsen is only available from 10 to 3 for non-staying guests, it's been a bit hard to catch. This time we were intent on trying Kajika Onsen and I am glad we made the extra effort. Kajika is a beautiful Ryokan surrounded by a peaceful snow-covered forest. They have one indoor and one outdoor bath available for non-staying guests to use before check-in time. The two baths have two different types of natural mineral waters. The indoor bath has simple alkaline clear water, while the outdoor bath smelled more sulfurous and was loaded with yu-no-hana which literally translates as bath flowers but looked more like bits of volcanic ash. Proof that it's a 100% natural mineral water hotspring.

Open: 10:00 - 15:00
Price: ¥800 adults / ¥500 kids
Access: You can find it on our google map here

If you are an onsen virgin (as one of our guests called it) you may be feeling a little reluctant to bathe with the locals. Many foreigners feel strange about being nude with others, but let me assure you, everyone is naked under their clothes, and everyone leaves their clothes behind when they take an onsen. If you too undress, you will fit in perfectly, no need to feel uneasy or out-of-place. And anyway, you will most likely never have to see these people again so who cares if they get a peak at your barest essentials.

Even if you don't care about the nudity, you may be worried about embarrassing yourself by committing the worst of faux pas while having nothing on to cover up the shame. The first time I went to an onsen I had a good friend take me through the process step-by-step. I have to admit it was not the most relaxing experience the first time around, but now, 100s of onsens later, I have to tell you this is an experience not to be missed! So let me take you through the process step by step and hopefully you too will feel confident enough to have a go at one of Japan's oldest and most popular traditions.

Click on "continue reading" for a detailed 9-step onsen procedure.

Those of you who were in Hakuba a few years back will fondly remember Obuya Onsen. The onsen with endless options. Obuya has a new owner and is now called Hakuba Genryu no Yu. They have a large washing area, large indoor bath, large outdoor bath, a steam room/bath inside a tiny hut, and a good selection of single use baths where you can put your feet up and your head back. This you must try during one of Hakuba's big snow falls. Watching huge lit up flakes floating towards you can best be described as a adventure through the galaxy,  all while keeping warm and soaking in the therapeutic waters of one of Hakuba's best mineral water sources.

UPDATE: The smaller baths and the steam room will not be put to use this winter. The indoor and outdoor baths are still fabulous though.The indoor bath area still smells of fresh hinoki, a Japanese cypres admired for its strength and aromatherapeutic qualities.

The outdoor area is steamy and the stone bath is surrounded by a thick blanket of snow while the hot alkaline rich water does wonders for dry winter skin.

Hakuba Genryu no Yu is a 10 or 15 minute walk from Lodge tabi-tabi. Just a few steps past the popular steak house, Guu.  You can also find it on our recommendation map here.

Charge: 500 yen
Open: 9:00 - 21:30

This year we will be celebrating the full moon with free 30 minute soaks in the tabi-tabi o-furo (bath). If the sky is clear you will be able to catch glimpses of  Mt. Tengu through the rising steam. During the rest of the moon cycle the bath is available for all guests as a private rental. A 50 minute soak is 1500 yen for 2 people, 2000 yen for 3, and 2500 yen for 4 people.

倉下の湯 (kurashita-no-Yu) is perhaps my favorite onsen in Hakuba. Mind you, it is not everyone's favorite. Some people don't like the color of the water, others are put off by the rusty smell. However, I love the yellowish-grey iron-rich water here.  As the sign on the wall proudly exclaims "this is real onsen water, straight from the spring" where nothing is added and none of it gets recycled. Hakuba has 3 types of hotspings. The alkaline springs in Happo make you feel real good on the outside as they do wonders for the skin. While this super potent iron and sulphur solution does wonders for your insides.   

Daini Satonoyu is one of the onsens in the Happo Onsen group. This is probably my favorite of the bunch because it is HOT! Last time I went it was over 43 degrees. The washing area is right next to the bath so it is nice and warm there too. There are some onsen I won't go to when I am feeling chilly because the washing area is just too cold. No problems here. The springs at the 4 Happo Onsens are high alkaline waters with a PH of 11, which means the water feels soft and makes your skin silky smooth. No rotenburo (outdoor bath), no windows, no view. Nothing fancy just good quality water at the right temperature (for me).

Hours: 12:00 - 21:00 (last entry is 20:30)

Closed: Wednesday

Price: adults ¥500 / children ¥250

We got married last year on April 1st so April Fools is our wedding anniversary! After tying the knot a year ago by handing in some papers to our local town hall we headed off for a romantic night at Chujokan Ryokan at Hoshi Onsen in Gunma prefecture. I have always wanted to visit Hoshi Onsen because our private bath at tabi-tabi was inspired by the enormous wooden baths at Chujokan Ryokan, the builder's favorite onsen.

          Hoshi Onsen's famous 1000 man bath                             tabi-tabi's Private bath

Chujokan was built in 1875 and is considered by many people to be one of the most beautiful ryokan in Japan. I highly recommend it too! The service, the food, the onsens, the location, the history... all was superb! It was so great in fact that we quickly decided that we should treat ourselves to a night at a ryokan on April Fools every year.

This year we stayed in Bessho Onsen at Hanaya Ryokan in Nagano prefecture. Hanaya Ryokan is Japanese by design but is decorated in the wayosechuyoshiki style. Basically "wa" is for "wafu"(or all things Japanese) on "yo" is for "yofu" (all things "yoropean"). Hanaya Ryokan was originally built as someone's private mansion during the Meiji period. It was at this time that Japan opened its doors to the outside world and wealthy people started buying European clocks, lighting. and tableware.  Much of which can still be found in historical houses, museums, and antique shops throughout of Japan.

Here are some more pics of the beautiful Hanaya Ryokan:

*click on the pics for larger images in flickr.   N~joy!

Woke up at 5 and 8 of us were on the road by 6.

We drove for 2 hours through the Japanese countryside:

 and snowy mountain roads:

then found powder paradise:

Needless to say, we were pretty excited:

We showed our appreciation and worshipped the Goddess of snow by spreading her offerings around ... until we couldn't take anymore and partook in the ritual of bathing in thermal waters granted to us by mother earth.

We were then blessed with more offerings from the sea as we filled up on sushi:

Gochisosamadeshita!

Actually the morning started at the doctor's office. There is a great sports clinic in Nagano city that uses their own (painful) version of osteopathy to get people back on their feet as quickly as possible. I have been going there twice a week for the last 3 weeks to treat a bad knee from a snowboarding injury. Yasu came along to have his back adjusted as well. Walked out of there stronger, staighter, and ready for another onsen. Not far from Nagano city is an old town famous for temples, pottery, and.... onsen. We have been to Matsushiro Onsen before and have recommended their rich yellow waters to friends and other lovers of onsen.

The place we chose was new, and big. I suspect it's government run and felt a bit like a hospital or "silver house" (retirement home). Lots of baths; indoor, outdoor, hot and cold. Plenty of space for everyone seeking a relaxing soak in iron rich waters.

With so many bathers about I couldn't take any pics so I have added a photo of their flyer.

Yasu's back still wasn't ready to shred so off to another onsen we went. This time we drove towards the coast into Otari. We went for a long drive down winding roads with snowbanks higher than our van. The road ends where the plows stop plowing which put us in front of Yamada Ryokan (Japanese style inn). The indoor bath is small but the water is potent. I had the place to myself so could sneak in a quick snap.

The place is old and ageing but I prefer a bit of character and a whole lot of history over bland and sterile. I hear the waters have been flowing here for over 500 years!!